vintage and old mine diamonds

Vintage Diamond Cuts: Rose Cuts, European & Old Mine Diamonds

Let's discuss vintage diamond cuts; rose cuts, Old mine & European cuts. We will go over the pros and cons of each style, so you can make a better choice for your engagement ring! We will also share which celebrity has a vintage diamond cut engagement ring, for real life examples.

 What Is A Rose Cut Diamond?

Rose cuts are a style of cut that has very few facets. If you aren't familiar with the terminology, facets refer to the flat, window like surface on a stone. Rose cuts have anywhere from 3 to 36 facets and can be made in every shape. In comparison to today's brilliant cut diamond which has a standard of 57-58 facets, it has allot less.
rose cut compared to brilliant cut diamonds

Rose cuts were popular in the 1500's and were seen well into the 1700's, until old mine cut diamonds slowly took their place. We've seen a rise over the last decade as vintage and art deco inspired styles have surged the market.

For this blog, we are mainly referring to diamonds but, you can also find these vintage cuts in every type of gemstone; sapphires, spinel's, morganites, etc. If you are looking to create a custom rose cut jewel, send us an email at and we will send you some stone options!

 Pros of buying a rose cut stone

A rose cut stone will always have a flat base. This is significant because all other cuts (other then cabochons) will go down into a point. This means when buying  a brilliant cut diamond, you will have additional carat weight below the rim that you wont be able to see. Versus a rose cut, which is flat, so for the same carat weight, you will have a much bigger stone because it will be wider then it is deep!
rose cut facets

If you have an active lifestyle, you will be able to set your diamond lower then other cuts because of its flat base. So you wont have to worry about it snagging as much as a brilliant cut that will protrude more. A great option for nurses who are constantly taking on an off they're gloves!

Rose cuts have a very unique look to them, if you are looking for a more alternative engagement ring. A great option for non traditionally stones like peppered diamonds, because it will allow you to see the patterns more clearly, due to its large window-like facets.

Cons of buying a rose cut

rose cut diamond shape about info

Rose cuts don't sparkle as much as a brilliant cut. There are less facets, so it won't refract light as much as a brilliant cut that has 57-58 facets, so your stone will tend to look more subdued.

 Having larger facets will allow you to see more clearly into the stone. For stones such as peppered diamonds, this is perfect, you want to be able to see the patterns. However for all other stones you will be able to see any and every little inclusion that much easier. Making the need for a higher quality clarity a must. When buying diamonds, an increase in clarity can have a noticeable impact on the cost.

What Are Old mine & European Cut Diamonds?

Old mine and European cut diamonds are diamonds cut from the early 1700's until 1919, when the brilliant cut diamond was invented. They're often romanticized because they are the last diamonds to have been hand cut and are no longer being produced, so what is on the market is what's left.
old mine cut diamonds about

How Tod Identify An Old Mine & European Cut Diamond

The easiest and probably the first thing you will notice is they have culets. A culet is when the point of the diamond is cut. This will create the appearance of a circle when looking from the tope of the stone downwards. Diamonds where cut like this because lapidary artists believed it increased the brilliance of the stone, by having that additional facet.

old mine cut diamond vintage aesthetic

They are also less "even". They where cut by hand with ought the precise & quality equipment we have today, so their facets tend to be larger, less symmetrical. They also followed along the lines of the rough diamond crystal, instead of cutting the perfect round diamond we see today, it will look almost like a cushion cut. This allowed to maximize the carat weight of the stone by leaving the original shape of rough.

Pros Of Old Mine & European Cut Diamonds

They have more personality then brilliant cuts. Each vintage diamond was carefully evaluated prior to cutting to optimize its final product. This means that every stone is unique in comparison to the standardized cut of the brilliant cut. They also look stunning in vintage inspired designs.

Buying an old diamond is also a more ethical option, which we will touch on below.

Old Mine cut diamonds are valuable, but they will be up to 20% less expensive then the standard quality of diamond we see today. A great option for smaller budgets.

Cons Of Buying An Old Mine & European Cut Diamond

They can be hard to find! They are no longer being produced, meaning all old mines & European cut diamonds need to come from pre-existing jewels. This is why if you would like to buy one, send us an inquiry as early as possible in order to have enough time for the hunt!

european cut diamond about

Old Mine diamonds are more yellow. They where mined from mines in India & Brazil. The quality of rough was nothing in comparison to the quality of rough coming from African, Russian or even Canadian mines that were discovered at a much later date. The color quality from these old mines where very yellow in comparison to todays colorless white. So when having your stone appraised with todays standard they will always fall short.

What Is The Difference Between An Old Mine Cut Diamond & A European Cut

Old mine cut diamonds are the predecessor of European cuts. You can easily distinguish them by they're squarish shape. Lapidary artists would cut the diamond following the shape of the rough crystal, which is why it looked almost like a cushion cut. They also hade much bigger and un-even facets.

When you compare these old mine cuts to European cuts you can easily see the rougher beginning of the old mine is refined as we start producing European cuts. European cuts become rounder, facets are more elongated and refined. This progression is easy to see from old mine, to European to brilliant cut, they become more perfected threw each style.
comparison between old mine cut european brilliant diamond

 Are Old Mine Diamonds Ethical?

Old Mine & European cut diamonds are no longer being produced, this means you will have to buy a pre-worn diamond. In giving a new life to an old stone you are reducing the demand for new diamonds to be mined, thus reducing mining altogether.

At Fine+Flux, we also Canadian diamond vendors for antique diamonds. This means the diamonds would have been mined and cut locally in Canada, to ensure the strictest quality work conditions and environmental care.

 How & Where To Buy An Antique Diamond

If you are looking to buy a vintage cut stone or diamond all you need to do is send us an email, with your budget and we will get back to you with multiple stone options to choose from!  At Fine+Flux we specialize in custom jewelry design and our customer service is our number 1 priority! We look forward to working together!


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